Slimane’s Saint Laurent Paris show channels the spirit of YSL at his Bohemian best

Saint Laurent Spring-2015-RTW

Saint Laurent Spring-2015 RTW

Hedi Slimane’s catwalk shows for Saint Laurent begin – begin properly, that is, after a diverting extended prelude in which models and rock stars drink champagne and snuggle up on the overcrowded front row, sideboob to leather jacket – with some feat of structural engineering.

(It is Saint Laurent, not Yves Saint Laurent, by the way; the striking out of the personal, given name of the founder is one of the myriad ways Slimane has asserted control over a house founded seven years before he was born.)

Saint Laurent gets a good rap

Sometimes there are rotating lighting rigs, or a meta-catwalk constructed before the audience’s eyes from metallic troughs. At Paris fashion week on Monday evening, the silver scaffolding which arched over the runway began to spin as the lights came up, showering the hall with starbursts of disco-ball light.

When Slimane was first at Saint Laurent the relevance of this engineering trickery seemed a little mystifying, considering that the clothes are entirely without complexity. (Scandalously so, some would say.) Saint Laurent, in its modern incarnation, does straight up rock’n’roll sex-appeal. Read more.